POTIONS
Alcohol remains fundamental to gastronomy in many cuisines and comes in all types of flavours, concentrations and colours.
Most alcohols are regional-based (Calvados from France, Amaretto from Italy) and turn up in classic regional dishes (Poulet a la Normande, Tiramisu).
Intoxicating as alcohol is, not any old bottle will do. As with flavours, the chemical structures of the underlying foods and botanicals determine which type of booze will work best.
Alcohol is used in savoury and sweet dishes, which makes them super versatile. A small, but perfectly chosen group of potions gives you choices without busting your budget.
Different types of alcohol have different ‘weights’ - heavy fortified wines, lighter spirits and a mix of liqueurs in-between (clear and clean Poire William to muddy and dense Kahlua).
Potions are not the ‘pop’ of colour in a lampshade livening up a cool, muted room, but the last chorus in a resounding song – all soaring violins and a 30-strong choir belting their way through the final refrain.
Potions are the last of the principles of fixtures and features.
There are three types of potions that you might want to put in your kitchen:
Fortified Wines – grape-based wines to which a distilled spirit (e.g. brandy (and more often than not, grape brandy)) is added. These wines run the gamut from dry and fine to rich and raisin-y, but from the driest sherry to the deepest port, you know you’re drinking something wine-based. Madeira and Marsala are heavier than sherry and vermouth.
Spirits – produced through distillation by means of fermenting grain, fruit or vegetables. Juniper berries for gin; wine for brandy; sugars (including molasses and honey) for rum; blue agave plants for tequila; different grains (barley, corn, maize, rye, wheat) for whisky; and potatoes for vodka. Beer, wine and cider are not spirits, because they are undistilled.
Liqueurs – made from a distilled spirit and flavoured with fruit, herbs, spices, flowers, nuts or cream, then bottled with added sugars and sweeteners. Except for the fact that they are all intoxicating – heady, strong, powerful and (some would say) exhilarating – it’s the aroma and taste that give you a feel for the underlying ingredient(s), i.e. berry, citrus fruit, nut. Popular liqueurs include Chambord and Crème de Cassis (berry-based); Kahlua and Tia Maria (coffee-based); Advocaat and Baileys (cream-based); Cointreau, Grand Marnier and Limoncello (fruit-based); Galliano and Sambuca (anise-based); Amaretto, Disaronno and Frangelico (nut-based).
From icy winters to cool springs and summer heatwaves to the most fecund of all the seasons – golden autumns – you can find any number of malty beers, sweet ciders, fruity wines, kick-ass spirits and sublime liqueurs to align with the seasons, adding elegance and complexity, all the way from French absinthe to Scotch whisky.
POTIONS Payoffs
Complementing meat-based dishes with alcohol adds more flavour and depth. Bold wines are better for casseroles, stews, marinating and deglazing. Beer is good for batters. Vodka and Pernod work best with lighter fish and pasta dishes. Bourbon is best for ‘sticky’ dishes like fall-apart ribs and chicken wings.
Pairing liqueurs with fruit and creams create a buzz and adds piquancy: spicy (rum), sour (maraschino), tart (sambuca), tasty (amaretto). Small amounts go a long way, whether drizzled over the top or used during cooking.